TrekDigest: 2010

Hotel Arches in Fort Kochi

Street scene near Hotel Arches

Terrace view

In Fort Kochi we began each day with breakfast on the serene rooftop terrace of our favourite hotel in Kerala, the Hotel Arches. The morning sky was always soft, breezes gentle, as the heat of the day had not yet set upon Fort Cochin. Through the treetops swooped tropical birds. In the distance we saw glimpses of the sea. This peaceful setting was perfect for an anxious traveller like me, new to India.

Das

On each of our 5 mornings on the rooftop terrace we were greeted by Das, a friendly dignified man, who brought us dark Keralan coffee, fresh juice and local fruits, eggs and toast, or a delicious masala dosa and coconut chutney. We dined within view of St. Francis Church, built in 1503, the oldest European church in India, and the original burial place of Vasco da Gama.

All of the staff at the Hotel Arches were considerate and sincerely kind. They arranged reliable transportation for us (Josie) from the airport and on to the tea plantations of Munnar. They quickly moved us to a lower floor, without request, upon seeing that I had injured my ankle - and they brought ice for the swelling- even at 3am.

The Hotel Arches itself was lovely in all ways. Rooms were large, perfectly clean, with air conditioning, TVs, and private baths. Free internet access was available in the hallway and there was an interesting collection of books for guests in the lobby.

There are fancier hotels in Fort Cochin, but I doubt that we will ever encounter the genuine sweetness of the staff we met at the Hotel Arches. The wonderful breakfasts, and the exceptional people at the Hotel Arches were a memorable part of our trip to Kerala. Thank-you Hotel Arches.

Balcony view and St. Francis Church

Cairo: Ancient Egypt

our tickets

The Pyramids and The Egyptian Museum

We were in Cairo in 1998, for just a few days. We flew in from Athens at night, and as we approached Cairo the city lights went on forever. Cairo is the largest city in Africa, with over 6 million people, and another 10 million on the outskirts.

From the Pyramids at Cheops we could see the Cairo skyline. At that time only the Second Pyramid (Giza) was open for internal viewing. The entrance doorway to the Pyramid was short and narrow. We walked single file, bent over through the long dark narrow passage. The corridor ended in a rectangular cement-like room with a bit of old graffiti on the wall and one sarcophagus in the centre. So old, so amazing.

We walked around the grounds in the blazing hot sun and had our pictures taken in front of the Sphinx. All in all, pretty spectacular.

Next day we went to the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. It was jam packed like an overstuffed garage with impressive artefacts, giant statues of Pharoahs, furniture, coins, jewellery - all from Ancient Egypt, the largest collection in the world. We met our tour guide, Moses, outside the museum. “Moses coming through “ he announced as he led us around the famous sights of the museum, barging ahead of tour groups. Moses was full of fantastic facts. Did you know that one drop of lotus oil on the forehead of an 80 year old woman made her look like a teenager again? Similar claims for men. The pitch to buy perfumes came after the tour. We enjoyed the entire experience.

At the Egyptian Museum we also viewed the contents of King Tut’s burial tomb, over 3500 items. So many things for life in the here and now, and in the afterlife. Chairs of every size for the growing king, boats for the journey to the netherworld, ritual jewelry and gold. King Tut was 19 years old when he died, probably of an infected leg wound. DNA testing has also revealed that he had malaria.

And then on to the Royal Mummies Hall. This was eerie, just as much from the stern armed guards, as from the Royal Mummies laid out around the room. Quiet! Everyone spoke, by order, in hushed tones, out of respect for the dead. This was thrilling, especially for the kids.

The Pyramids and the Egyptian Museum are sights every traveller longs to see. Inspiring, fascinating, perplexing.

Basilica Cistern in Istanbul

Basilica Cistern Medussa

The subterranean Basilica Cistern in Istanbul once provided water for the Palace of Constantinople, and later for Topkapi Palace. It is thought to be an enlarged version of an original cistern built by the Emperor Constantine and then rebuilt and expanded by Emperor Justinian in 532 AD. Water travelled to this largest cistern, and to the numerous others in Constantinople, via aqueducts from woodlands 12 miles away. The cistern is an impressive archeological wonder of the Byzantine Empire.

The cavernous cistern, also called the Sunken Palace or Yerebatan Sarayi, was cool and dark, with water dripping from above when we ventured down from the hot sunny streets of Istanbul. Twelve rows of marble columns hold up the high arched ceilings, and coloured floodlights add to the intriguing aura. Carp swam in the quiet reflective waters, as we moved along the damp cement walkways. Keep walking through the cistern to the back and you will come upon the Medusa heads.

These huge amazing stone carvings sit at the base of two columns. One mossy Medusa is upside down and the other lies on its side. Where they came from is a mystery. Why are they not upright? To ward off evil spirits? To celebrate the triumph of Christianity? This, too, is a mystery.

Like many of the fantastic historic sites of Istanbul, the Basilica Cistern is within walking distance of the Blue Mosque, across the way from the Haghia Sofia in Sultanahmet. Worth seeing, be sure not to miss the Basilica Cistern.

Fort Kochi, Kathakali

Make-up applications and preparations for the performance.

In Fort Cochin in Kerala on the southern tip of India, we saw a shortened version of a Kathakali presentation, a dramatic religious story told through chanting and drumming, elaborate make-up and costume, and detailed facial expressions and movement. It was fascinating, like nothing we had ever seen before. Exactly what a traveller wants.

Rome: Forums and Spring Flowers

10 Tips to Pack Light: Clothing. Travel Light!

1.Take clothes you can wash in the sink and that will dry overnight. Take laundry detergent in a small plastic jar. Use soap sparingly and wring wet clothes almost dry.

2.Pack no clothes that need ironing. Roll them up and pack them tightly to reduce wrinkles and volume.

3.Take clothes that are lightweight, compact and easy care.

4.If your clothes ‘go together’ you won't need as many. Are they appropriate for your destination?

5.Pack clothes that you can layer together for additional warmth. Rely upon the cumulative warmth of your clothing. The shirt over the T-shirt, under the fleecy, under the Gortex.

6. Only take garments that you really like, have worn before, are extremely comfortable and durable. Test everything before the trip.

7. Are your clothes comfortable for the climate? Research this. Temperature, precipitation, humidity?

8.Pack clothes with zip pockets and deep pockets. Keep money, passports and credit cards safe. Front zip pockets on shirts are preferable. A purse can be grabbed.

9. Make a clothing packing list. Review. Do you really need all those clothes? Try fitting them into your bag. Perhaps you will want to buy some clothes at your destination. If so, take fewer clothes.

10. Do you need clean clothes every day? Most likely not. Take the same amount of clothes for seven weeks as you think you will need for one week, no more. Count on doing laundry. Pack all the clothes you think you need and then take 1/3 out. Can you make do?

More ideas: -Many hotels lend umbrellas to guests. Cities in Asia have inexpensive plastic rain ponchos for sale.
-In really hot places, sandals may be all you need.
-Air conditioning can be cold and temperatures on planes can fluctuate. Prepare.
-Check with your lodging before you go for things like beach towels, shampoo, laundry service and laundry fees.
-Just take enough face cream, etc. to last the trip. Label small plastic containers with your necessary products.
-Many places also have hair dryers in the room. Don't pack one.
-Pack a small flashlight for power outages
-Consider a compact camera instead of big photography gear
-Take a light-weight bag, with wheels.
-take few books, buy books as you go, bring an e-reader, leave books behind as you go.

Melaka, Malaysia UNESCO World Heritage

The Groom

On the streets of Melaka, Malaysia, some of my favourite photos were of the people we came upon. I snapped all of these shots on a Sunday afternoon. On a quiet street we encountered a groom (above), preparing to be married. What a lovely moment.

Dancing Tourist Police draw a crowd

The city of Melaka is only 4 hours away from Singapore by express bus, so if you are in Singapore, consider a few days in Melaka. It is a holiday destination for Singaporeans, who appreciate the cheaper prices of Malaysia.

Melaka, once an important trading port, is also a UNESCO World Heritage site and has historical, multi-cultural attractions. We were content to walk around and view temples and mosques, and the unique architecture of Melaka. There were antique shops galore and numerous stores for tourists to buy inexpensive gifts to take home.

Hereen House

Photo with a big snake in the town square

We stayed for 2 nights at the Heeren House, which is ideally located to view the old city on foot. The excellent and reasonably priced cuisine of Melaka reflects its' rich cultural heritage: Chinese, Islamic, Indian, and European. We enjoyed sitting outdoors at the Geographer Cafe, and later dined on the fabulous Melakan Portuguese dishes at the Eleven Bistro, just up the street.

Walk along the river

Making a New Year's video

Small temple

Shopping in a historic setting

Istanbul, Turkey

Start the music at the end of this post....

Istanbul

By the Sea in Istanbul.

Along the banks of the Bosphorus sprawls the port city of Istanbul, 5th largest city in the world. This growing metropolis winds around the shores of the Golden Horn inlet and along the Sea of Marmara. The Bosporus Straight divides Europe from Asia, and Istanbul spans both continents. To the north the Bosphorus links with the Black Sea and to the south, the Marmara, which flows to the Mediterranean, via the Dardanelles. The deep natural harbours and strategic location of port Istanbul have made this ancient city, once called Constantinople, and before that Byzantium, a centre for land and sea trade.

Yedicule

From atop 5th century fortification walls that once protected the 'old city' from land invasion, at a place called Yedikule, we viewed ships in the distance moving through the Sea of Marmara. Here, at the Fortress of Seven Towers, we observed dozens of sea freighters transporting goods to and from Turkey and Asia to Europe and the world. The Fortress itself was under restoration, as were other parts of the fortification wall. We took a cab from our hotel, the Dersaadet, near the Blue Mosque, to Yedikule. The hotel staff were happy to completely make the arrangements for us to take this 'out of the way' excursion. The Dersaadet is a wonderful mid-sized hotel in a restored Ottoman wooden house.

Fresh fish from the docks in Istanbul

The population of Istanbul is 12 million, with another 5 million nearby. Many Turks rely upon sea transportation to commute and sea busses carry passengers between Europe and Asia, up and down the Bosporus and around the Golden Horn. The main commuter docks are in the old city, the Sultanahmet, and are crowded and lively. They are a short walk from the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya, and other fabulous attractions. Street vendors set up shops on the sidewalk and food stalls serve fish sandwiches. On small boats men grill fresh fish to sell to shoppers, tourists and commuters. This is a terrific spot to see residents of Istanbul out for a stroll, enjoying the panoramic views of the city.

Istanbul, Turkey

Along the Bosporus to the Black Sea

For a day trip, we took a ferry from Istanbul along the Bosporus to the Black Sea and stopped at the village of Anadolu Kavagi. We climbed to a medieval castle built originally by the Byzantines. From the castle, we could see the forested banks of the Black Sea. Turkey lies on the southern shore of the Black Sea. Georgia, Russia, the Ukraine, Romania, and Bulgaria border around the western and northern perimeters. We had a fresh seafood lunch in the town of Anadolu Kavagi before we headed back to Istanbul.

The Black Sea

Istanbul is one of the great cities of the world, with excellent museums and attractions, great food, interesting people and history, and a pleasing climate. It is a city on the move, with a young population.

More to see in Istanbul.....