Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

Inside Fort Jaisalmer, view from a patio

Station in Jaipur



Jaisalmer in Rajasthan, India  is near the border with Pakistan in the Thar desert. For security reasons, the airport isn't open. The remote location of Jaisalmer attracts fewer tourists, and this is part of its' tranquil charm. We left hectic Jaipur for Jaisalmer by train shortly after midnight and awoke next morning streaming through the Thar desert, with glimpses of peacocks along the tracks and wind generators in the distance. 

We arrived in Jaisalmer, the Golden City, around noon. Fort Jaisalmer, built in 1156, rises on a sandstone ridge high above the desert. A third of the people of Jaisalmer still live in the old town inside the Fort. We stayed outside at the Hotel Fifu.

Jaisalmer Fort from Hotel Fifu

Hotel Fifu is in a rural neighbourhood within easy walking distance of the Fort. Above the guest rooms of this superb small hotel are several levels of comfortable dining and relaxation terraces with stunning views of the Fort and the surrounding desert. 


In the Jain Temple

 

town Bhang shop?




Jain carvings

 

Jauhar handprints







 

We found Bobbi's Craft Shop on a narrow street on our first day.



 

  

Mr. Fifu hooked us up with local guide, Vivender, for a full day walk through the historic sites of Jaisalmer. We toured the Fort, old havelis, exquisite Jain temples, attended a Hindu celebration, and climbed up a  turret to a patio for tea and views of the Fort and the desert beyond. What an interesting day.



  



Jaisalmer lies in the heart of the Thar desert. This is the land of snake charmers and camel caravans, where women wear bright neon scarves and dance with fire pots on their heads. The music is lively, crafts are colourful, the architecture medieval, and the people are friendly and unique with a rich culture.  



Village near the camp




Mr. Fifu organized a safari by jeep through the desert, where we slept in canvas tents, with camels nearby, ready for trekking. We watched the sun set over sand dunes, an entrancing, peaceful experience. After dark, there was energetic and beautiful Rajasthani folk music and dancing around the campfire by local Kalbelia folk artists - a highlight! 

(I copied a video from Youtube of  Rajasthani gypsy dancing below. Check it out, it is similar to what we saw).


Talented dancer at our campsite.

  

We visited Jaisalmer in early March, midway through our 3 week trip through Rajasthan. There is an annual performing arts festival in Jaisalmer in early February, which would be spectacular to attend. Jaisalmer is fascinating in so many ways, and Hotel Fifu, too, was a special place. Summer is brutally hot in Jaisalmer, so check out the climate before you book - but go.





Our tents in the Thar Desert


 

After sundown, we were treated to fabulous local talent.

 
Thanks to Trivat Productions for the 'borrowed'Youtube video below.






Thar desert near Jaisalmer, Rajasthan





Hotel Arches in Fort Kochi

Street scene near Hotel Arches 

Terrace view

In Fort Kochi we began each day with  breakfast on the serene rooftop terrace of our favourite hotel in Kerala, the Hotel Arches. The morning sky was always soft, breezes gentle, as the heat of the day had not yet set upon Fort Cochin. Through the treetops swooped tropical birds. In the distance we saw glimpses of the sea. This peaceful setting was perfect for an anxious traveller like me, new to India.

Das

On each of our 5 mornings on the rooftop terrace we were greeted by Das, a friendly dignified man, who brought us dark Keralan coffee, fresh juice and local fruits, eggs and toast, or a delicious masala dosa and coconut chutney. We dined within view of St. Francis Church, built in 1503, the oldest European church in India, and the original burial place of Vasco da Gama.



All of the staff at the Hotel Arches were considerate and sincerely kind. They arranged reliable transportation for us (Josie) from the airport and on to the tea plantations of Munnar. They quickly moved us to a lower floor, without request, upon seeing that I had injured my ankle - and they brought ice for the swelling- even at 3am.

The Hotel Arches itself was lovely in all ways. Rooms were large, perfectly clean, with air conditioning, TVs, and private baths. Free internet access was available in the hallway and there was an interesting collection of books for guests in the lobby.


There are fancier hotels in Fort Cochin, but I doubt that we will ever encounter the genuine sweetness of the staff we met at the Hotel Arches. The wonderful breakfasts, and the exceptional people at the Hotel Arches were a memorable part of our trip to Kerala. Thank-you Hotel Arches.

Balcony view and St. Francis Church

Cairo: Ancient Egypt

our tickets

The Pyramids and The Egyptian Museum

We were in Cairo several years ago, for just a few days. We flew in from Athens at night, and as we approached Cairo the city lights seemed to go on forever. Cairo is the largest city in Africa, with over 6 million people, and another 10 million on the outskirts.



From the Pyramids at Cheops we could see the Cairo skyline. When we were there only the Second Pyramid (Giza) was open for internal viewing. The entrance door to the Pyramid was short and we walked bent over through the long dark narrow passage. The corridor ended in a rectangular cement-like room with a bit of old graffiti on the wall and one sarcophagus in the centre. It was mysterious. So old, so amazing.


We walked around the grounds in the blazing hot sun and had our pictures taken in front of the Sphinx. All in all, pretty spectacular.



Next day we went to the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. It was jam packed like an overstuffed garage with impressive artefacts, giant statues of Pharoahs, furniture, coins, jewellery all from Ancient Egypt, the largest collection in the world. We met our tour guide, Moses, outside the museum. “Moses coming through “ he announced as he led us around the famous sights of the museum, barging ahead of tour groups. Moses was full of fantastic facts. Did you know that one drop of lotus oil on the forehead of an 80 year old woman made her look like a teenager again? Similar claims for men. The pitch to buy perfumes came after the tour. We enjoyed the entire experience.



At the Egyptian Museum we also viewed the contents of King Tut’s burial tomb, over 3500 items. So many things for life in the here and now, and in the afterlife. Chairs of every size for the growing King, even for after his death. 


And then on to the Royal Mummies Hall. This was eerie, just as much from the stern armed guards, as from the Royal Mummies. Quiet! Everyone spoke, by order, in hushed tones, out of respect for the dead. This was thrilling, especially for the kids.





The Pyramids and the Egyptian Museum are sights every traveller longs to see. Inspiring, fascinating, perplexing.

Basilica Cistern in Istanbul

Basilica Cistern Medussa

The subterranean Basilica Cistern in Istanbul once provided water for the Palace of Constantinople, and later for Topkapi Palace. It is thought to be an enlarged version of an original cistern built by the Emperor Constantine and then rebuilt and expanded by Emperor Justinian in 532 AD. Water travelled to this largest cistern, and to the numerous others in Constantinople, via aqueducts from woodlands 12 miles away. The cistern is an impressive archeological wonder of the Byzantine Empire.

The cavernous cistern, also called the Sunken Palace or Yerebatan Sarayi, was cool and dark, with water dripping from above when we ventured down from the hot sunny streets of Istanbul. Twelve rows of marble columns hold up the high arched ceilings, and coloured floodlights add to the intriguing aura. Carp swam in the quiet reflective waters, as we moved along the damp cement walkways. Keep walking through the cistern to the back and you will come upon the Medusa heads.

These huge amazing stone carvings sit at the base of two columns. One mossy Medusa is upside down and the other lies on its side. Where they came from is a mystery. Why are they not upright? To ward off evil spirits? To celebrate the triumph of Christianity? This, too, is a mystery. 



Like many of the fantastic historic sites of Istanbul, the Basilica Cistern is within walking distance of the Blue Mosque, across the way from the Haghia Sofia in Sultanahmet. Worth seeing, be sure not to miss the Basilica Cistern.

Fort Kochi, Kathakali

Make-up applications and preparations for the performance.

In Fort Cochin in Kerala on the southern tip of India, we saw a shortened version of a Kathakali presentation, a dramatic religious story told through chanting and drumming, elaborate make-up and costume, and detailed facial expressions and movement. It was fascinating, like nothing we had ever seen before. Exactly what a traveller wants.

Here's a portion of the same performance we saw, borrowed from You Tube.

Rome: Forums and Spring Flowers

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10 Tips to Pack Light: Clothing. Travel Light!

1.Pack clothes you can wash in the sink and that will dry overnight. Take laundry detergent in a small plastic jar with a plastic spoon tucked in.

2.Pack clothes that don’t need ironing. Roll clothes and pack them tightly to reduce volume in your travel bag.

3.Take clothes that are lightweight and compact. Some polyesters are soft, warm and light. How much room do they take up? How much do they weigh?

4.Pack only clothes that ‘go together’. Wear all shirts with all shorts and pants. Dress appropriately for your destination.

5.Pack clothes that you can layer together for additional warmth. Think about the cumulative warmth of your clothing, instead of taking several heavier items. The shirt over the T-shirt, under the fleecy, under the Gortex.

6. Pack only clothes you really like, have worn before, and that are extremely comfortable.

7. Pack clothes comfortable for the climate you are going to. Research this. Temperature, precipitation, humidity.

8.Pack clothes with zip pockets and deep pockets. Keep money and credit cards safe. Reduce your need for a daypack or purse on daytrips. Front zip pockets on shirts are preferable.

9. Make a clothing packing list. Review. Do you really need all those clothes? Try fitting them into your bag. Perhaps you will want to buy some clothes at your destination. If so, take fewer clothes.

10. Do you need clean clothes every day? Most likely not. Take the same amount of clothes for seven weeks as you think you will need for one week, no more. Pack all the clothes you think you need and then take 1/3 out.

Melaka, Malaysia

The Groom

Pictures of People from the Streets of Melaka

On the streets of Melaka, Malaysia, some of my favourite photos were of the people we came upon. I snapped all of these shots on a Sunday afternoon. On a quiet street we encountered a groom (above), preparing to be married. What a lovely moment.

Dancing Tourist Police draw a crowd 

The city of Melaka is only 4 hours away from Singapore by express bus, so if you are in Singapore, consider a few days here. Melaka is a holiday destination for Singaporeans, who appreciate the cheaper prices of Malaysia.  

Melaka, once an important trading port, is also a UNESCO World Heritage site and has historical, multi-cultural attractions.  We were content to walk around and view temples and mosques, and the unique architecture of Melaka. There were antique shops galore and numerous stores for tourists to buy inexpensive gifts to take home.

Hereen House

Photo with a big snake in the town square

We stayed for 2 nights at the Heeren House, which is ideally located to view the old city on foot. The excellent and reasonably priced cuisine of Melaka reflects its' rich cultural heritage: Chinese, Islamic, Indian, and European. We enjoyed sitting outdoors at the Geographer Cafe, and later dined on the fabulous Melakan Portuguese dishes at the Eleven Bistro, just up the street.  

Walk along the river

Making a New Year's video

Small temple

Shopping in a historic setting